Desert Castles
There
might be different ways to drive to Azraq, but I just remember we drove in the
direction of Amman Airport, passed Al Jweideh, Abu Alanda and the industrial
area of Sahab. From here just followed the signs pointing to Azraq or Iraq as
destination. After visiting the highlights of Jordan, the visit of the Desert
Castles will show you another side of the country. You will feel that Jordan’s
landscape is mainly desert, but unlike Wadi Rum the east is a black basalt
desert, flat and makes the impression of no man’s land. The road is partly not
in the best condition and bumpy, and there is a lots of truck traffic through
the desert from/to Iraq and Saudi Arabia.
There
are totally nine Desert Castles east and southeast of Amman, but the easiest to
visit are Kharanah, Amra and Azraq. Kharanah and Amra are located directly
beside the highway, Azraq castle you find after turning left at the junction in
Azraq town. The Desert castles are an impressing example to the flourishing
beginning of Islamic-Arab civilization, architecture and art. They had been
built by the Umayyads 661-750 AD. The Umayyads had been the second caliphate
after the death of prophet Mohammad and made Damascus their new capital. Many
castles lie on the ancient trade route towards Medina and Kufa. They served as residences,
caravanserais and bath.
Kharaneh
is well preserved with its original architectural elements and consists of two
levels. 61 rooms area arranged around a courtyard. Round buttresses occupy the
four corners. Narrow openings in the outer wall seem to be arrow slits, but
actually they provided light and ventilation for the interior. Several
staircases lead to the upper floors. Stucco discs with stylized plants
decorating the upper sections of some rooms reflect close contact with the art
of Iraq and Mesopotamia. The original function of the building is not clear,
most scholars think it had been a khan, which would make Qasr Kharaneh the
earliest known khan of the Islamic period.
The eastern solitude made me feel this is worth a shot, some green bushes close to Qusair Amra.
Quseir
Amra has been inscribed upon the World Heritage List of the Convention
concerning the protection of World Cultural and Natural Heritage. Built in the
early 8th century, this hunting pavilion in the steppe was from to
time used as a temporary lodging for members of the ruling Umayyad family. The
most outstanding features are the reception hall, the hydraulic structure and
the baths, both richly decorated with figurative fresco and reliefs.
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